Fusemaster opaque enamel painting disaster?
A student of mine created a stain glass window around some airbrushed and thrice fired figures we did together in a class. He just finished leading it and when he appied a patina (Novacan) to the lead it floated the entire image off the glass. He says there is no trace of the image left - as if it had never fused. We were using Fusemaster lead free low fire enamel (for health reasons) which is supposed to fuse at 1200 degrees. We took the glass to 1375 and soaked it for several minutes. The image held up to wiping down with Windex and seemed to be adhered. You could not scrape it off. I know that all the painted glass I have done with Savoy Studio was very carefully handled during the patina process but I can't believe it would have floated off. We always used Reusche and Fusemaster transparents.
Anybody got a clue what went wrong and why??
* Enamel is dissolved by nitric acid. I bet it was black patina.
I had once done a very difficult and complicated panel and the last step was applying patina. I fortunately noticed the enamel disappearing, so I stopped it. I used copper patina and saved the day. That piece is my only creation in a museum.
* On the other hand it sounds like a promising method of etching low fire enamels.
* Raphael again,
Dan Legree of Savoy tells me they learned that lesson years ago and now let the mud (putty used to fill gaps in lead came) color the lead.
Thanks Bert for the response.
* Hi. I am that artist. I took Raphael's class and we did two identical images for a mermaid on opal glass. We fired them three layers of paint at 1375 and saw them flash. I assumed this meant they fused past the surface of the glass. We (Raphael and i had no reason not to believe what we saw in the kiln.) I took them home to CA., built two 15x22 identical windows, glass piece cut next to each other and made two mermaids. Soldered them with flux, cleaned them with a scrub-brush and water and windex to remove all residue, pretty briskly, I might add. The paint was perfect (fusemaster low fire enamle). Patina on the backs of both, no problem, Patina on the zinc, no problem, patina got on the surfaces of the painted-fired images (no reason to believe a problem) and sprayed it with a hose, and EVERYTHING was gone. The windows still look great, but ZERO paint. It was catastrophic for me. So, a HUGE lesson learned. My question now is..., can i use higher-fiered Reausche trans and expect them to fuse. And if so, once fused, will they be endangered by patina once fused. Thanks in advance for your replies. -- pat
* Pat Your glass fused just fine. The nitric acid in the black patina dissolved the enamel and when you washed it, it all washed away. Use copper patina and you shouldn't have the problem.
Now if I am wrong and you didn't use black patina, I have no explanation. However I have watched enamels start to dissolve with the black patina.
* It's months later and I have learned a great deal about patina and enamels, by calling Reusche and Fuse-Master and several glass painters and discussing it with all of them. I now have a kiln and am going to re-paint the images and try again. I will post more about the results later. Here is a link to the story as it is sso far:
. I also have a request for anyone on the forum interested in helping: I am obviously beginning to learn painting on glass, and currently have tiny amounts of about 20 colors including basic tracing black, bistre brown, umber and a few miscellaneous colors of Reusches and a few Fuse-Masters. I am seeking any firable glass paints you no longer want. I am just trying to build a palette of different colors, whether lo-fire, high fire, w/ lead, w/o lead, so I can run test pieces in the kiln and see what i like, without buying ounces of 50 different colors and temperature ranges, at the risk of then not liking them. Even a few tablespoons of odd colors and types would be great. Just as long as they are identifiable, so I can hopefully find them again if they work well. Ideally, I am trying to find 1 or 2 ounces of any different glass stainer's colors, stains or enamels, whether old or recent. Anything is welcome. I don't mind paying a reasonable price, but am only in the learning stage, and just desire lots of samples to mess with. Please feel free to contact me directly: Thanks!!