Glass size for Draping?

I hope that is what this is called.
I found a 3.5" tall stainless steel shaker at work (I am a bartender) and I want to make a small vase with it. I have an Evenheat Hot Shot and us Spectrum 96.
1. (and I know this has been asked before but can it be answered without to much math?) how do I know what size square to use to make the vase?
2. Do I use the same schedule as I use for slumping?
Segment Temperature Arrive Temp Hold
1 400 1000 0
2 1200 1225 15
3 9999 1000 8
4 300 950 20
5 200 800 0
6 400 120 0

* measure total distance for size of glass.
anneal for a LOT longer. Vases are notorious for breaking at fold touches.

* Set the former open side down on the shelf (like you're ready to fire). Measure up one side, across the top and down the side back to the shelf. This length represents the longest dimension of the glass if you don't want it to touch the shelf when slumped. If you're using a square, your diagonal measurment should not exceed this amount; if a circle, your diameter should not exceed it.

* You will need to watch the first half dozen to know what happens when. The firing will need to be stopped when the desired shape is achieved.
Steve

* I am not an expert, still a newbie, but have done 2 drapes so far. The first one I cut 1/2" shy of the height X2 and width of the top of my former. When It drapes, the glass has a tendency to pull so now I cut mine 1 - 1/2" shorter so that the drape does not hit the floor.
Both of mine had beautiful folds. The first broke because I did not allow for stretching and it caught on the edges of the ss former. The second drape was done on a ceramic former and I got impatient and took it out of the kiln too soon and thermal shocked it. Patiences is more than a virtue.... it is beautiful glass.

* glass draped over ceramic shapes like a floral former usually break because glass shrinks more than ceramic on cool down. rosanna

* Thanks everyone. I will give it a try this weekend.

* Do I need to drill a hole in the bottom of the shaker before draping?

* No, you are putting the open side down on the shelf. If you have room you can elevate the shaker on some kiln furniture.

* No, you are putting the open side down on the shelf. If you have room you can elevate the shaker on some kiln furniture.
Thanks I have the sticks I was using for my pot melts I will use to raise it up a little.

* No, you are putting the open side down on the shelf. If you have room you can elevate the shaker on some kiln furniture.
Why then do we need holes in the bottoms of SS bowls when slumping over them? Just asking cuz I'd love to not have to drill holes in them.

* No, you are putting the open side down on the shelf. If you have room you can elevate the shaker on some kiln furniture.
Why then do we need holes in the bottoms of SS bowls when slumping over them? Just asking cuz I'd love to not have to drill holes in them. :?
You don't. You drill holes to slump into them.

* No, you are putting the open side down on the shelf. If you have room you can elevate the shaker on some kiln furniture.
Why then do we need holes in the bottoms of SS bowls when slumping over them? Just asking cuz I'd love to not have to drill holes in them.
Johnene(?) You will need holes in the bottom of stainless steel or clay or ceramic or .... bowls or molds if you slump into it but there is no need if you drape over it.
One thing I always do though, I always elevate the molds from the shelf with 1/2" or 1" kiln posts so that air can circulate, no matter if I use it slump or drape or the material of the mold.

* Thank you sooooo much! I could kiss ya all! I have burned up more drill bits. So the SS molds that I bought with holes in are safe to slump into then... Great!

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