Handling hot glass with gloves!!?
In Lundstrom's book 2, p.47-48, there is a description and photo of a fuser touching/manipulating very,very holt glass just out of a 1400F kiln. He shapes it with his gloved hand and returns it to the kiln to anneal.
Q. What kind of gloves is he using to contact and maninipulate the glass without feeling the 1400F??
I have a blend of PBI-Kevlar long mittens rated for 1700F which I use when I comb at 1700F. They have become charred over time and I DO feel the heat right through the glove if I'm in the kiln too long.
Q:Where might I buy such gloves?
* The pbi-kevlar are about the best I have used so far, better than the Zetex Plus. I also put mitts over them so you have a sacrificial surface. I did a web search and found MRS Industries
I bought the 8KB118DFW (although I would like to find a board sponsor who has them, since I will be buying more). With the mitt, I have about 20-30 seconds of contact time on the glass at 1250 degrees, but have not tried hotter.
Interestingly enough, it is contact with the kiln shelf or the mold you feel most, not the glass. Probably based on the heat retention property's.
* Thanks Steve,
I have been hoping I'd get a reply.
I checked the link you gave me. I will call about hand size. They are probalbly all the one size and are bulky for a female hand. The mitten covers seem a real plus. I do have a glove that supposedly goes to 1700 but I'll use the mitten cover for sure.
* You can also get the smaller ones for lower temps - like 350C (662F), the ones with finger and wear them under the big High Temperature ones.
I have a pair for 1100C (2012F) but I bought them in Germany
* Try this site,
* Scroll down a little ways. They have a set rated to 1770 and another set for molten glass/metal.
I haven't bought them nor used them, so cannot vouch for them at all.
* along this line ....any suggestions about a face mask?
* When I talked to them, I wanted fingered gloves,for dexterity, but if I am putting a mitt over it anyway, I kind of lost that part.
They seem to work well for my pushing molds around in the kiln and repositioning the glass. Plus I did want a long length. I suppose it you wore kevlar "arm warmers" a short length would be ok.
Check this link:
This is where I purchased the face shield which
I use for combing.
FS-18GL Gold & Hard-Coated Lexan shield with helmet.
The "helmet" covers the top of the head about half way back and has an adjustable head band in back.
The gold coating protects against radiant temp. up to 1800. It is poycarbonate and is considered one of the best shields. I use it for combing and for looking closely during slumping. I never feel the heat on my face.
Mine are 14" mittens, OK for combing. But for working inside the kiln I, too, would need sleeves... maybe aluminum.
I just went into the kiln at 1480 and touched the glass for a couple of seconds. No problem for that short time but I'm scared about longer contact.
The picture in the Lundstrom book shows the fuser who has removed the glass at 1400, folds it INTO a ss bowl on a table, drapes it OVER another ss form and finally returns it to the kiln with the form in place. This must be very precisely orchestrated and a very, very fast maneuver to get it back into the kiln before it cools to below 1100.
My idea is to squeeze/fold a glass blank that is draped OVER a stable ss bowl form, at 1150-1200 working within the kiln the whole time. Also requires speed and dexerity but, for me, preferable to removing then replacing the glass. All still in the thinking stage.
* Don't you consider wooden tweezers/tools. In difference to metal, they don't termo-shock the glass when they are cold, and leave no mark.