fusing photo paper?

I am ready to fuse a piece of glass (6"x 6", 96 spectrum white) with a picture of santa and children with christmas greeting done with photo fusing paper from delphi. Does anyone have an opinion on wether i should use a cap of clear regular spectrum or the double thick clear spectrum? I don't know if the added weight of the double thick clear would make a difference with bubbles or picture burnout. This is my first time using this paper, I hope it works well. The directions say bring it to a full fuse and also can be slumped after if wanted. I plan on fusing it this afternoon any advice would be appreciated.

* Patti,
I'm not sure about the weight issue, but if you take a stack thicker than 1/4" to full fuse without a dam around it, it may stretch at the edges. This might mess up the pictures and change the shape to something you won't be happy with.

* can anyone explain how this stuff works ?

* Just took my first try at using the photo paper out of the kiln. It came out good. Delphi has instructions with the paper. I ended up not capping it at all with the suggestion from another board member. Keith what I did was take a picture to office max and had them make me a copy on their laser printer. It only cost 9 cents for two pictures. You then cut out your picture and soak it for a few seconds and then apply it to glass, just like a decal. Squeeze out all excess water and remove any air bubbles and let dry over night. I did not go to a full fuse. I went to 1420F on two pieces of Spectrum white with red and green pieces on the side as a frame. Delphi says it can be slumped in a mold after also. I think the next one I try will come out even better (it is a picture of a buffalo taken at Teton National Park) because it copied much darker. Your picture will come out of the kiln a sepia brown color. I'm going to have fun with this paper.

* Patti
two more stupid question if you dont mind answering
Does the paper burn away ?
does the print have to be black/white from the lazer printer ?
i would sure like to see a photo of your piece , to compare with the two on the Delphi site .

* Keith, The paper is not what goes in the kiln. But the decal that slides off the paper when wetted. I did watch while fusing and the picture was darker at 1350F and seemed to get lighter the higher the temp went, that is why I did not go to full fuse. It looks like the examples on the Delphi site, but my pictue seemed to pop more because of the colors I framed it with. I don't know what you would get with a colored picture, instructions say to use a black & white image. I'd post a picture but don't know how.

* I just tried the Delphi paper at full fuse between two layers of glass and the image was gone?
For those that have been successful, could you tell us what you did different than the Delphi instructions?
Which printer used? Did you run paper copies first to "warm" up the toner?
Did you set your printer to Photo level for high dpi? Did you set it to paper or transparency?
Fusing temp? Ramp rate?
Chuck of AZ

* I know the image depends on the amount of oxide in the toner. Maybe everyone that reads this post that have used the decal paper might share with us what printer worked well for them. I once saw a list on a website somewhere and now i can't find it. I use a HP 1020 which has approx 60% iron oxide (as listed on msds sheet) denise

* I hope others do just that. A brother HL2040 does not work?
Chuck of AZ

* There are many different types of toner. I refill my hp2300 with 'compatible' toner. The images are not as good as with the factory stuff in a brand new cartridge. The toner works just fine on regular paper for regular printing but it is different when fired. I have not used the papers you are using.

* Denise,
I just got the MSDS from Brother and their toner contains only 6% carbon.
The MSDS for the HP 1020 says 60% iron??????? Please check, that is a hugh difference - 10X
Chuck of AZ

* I'm waiting for a cheap auction on eBay to grab a MICR toner cartridge. They supposedly have a BUNCH more iron in 'em. The images I did with my existing cartridge aren't exactly saturated:

* Fuselight,
Which printer?? What is a MICR cartridge?
Chuck of AZ

* MICR stands for "Magnetic Ink Character Recognition" and is used by the checking industry to read the account info. They have higher iron content for the check readers,
Brother and HP do not make MICR toner cartridges. HP recommends Troy Solutions. Most Brother printers cannot use the MICR cartridges; I'm waiting for the list of ones that can from Brother. It appears that most of HP laser printers can use them. Ebay has several companies that want to sell their MICR cartridges? Anyone know of a good one???
I'm waiting for the MSDS of standard toners from HP. More later.
Chuck of AZ

* I posted a picture in this thread a few days ago
it was done with the beldecal paper with HP Laserjet 4050

* So, I found the HP MSDS sheets, and sure enough, lots of the HP laser toners have anywhere from 40-60% iron oxide. Not mine, of course.
I wonder if the print shops know what the iron content is in their laser printers? Otherwise I guess I should find out what type of printer they have in advance, look up MSDS, THEN go get things printed.

* Darn, I wish I could find that list on the web that I saw about a month ago, Chaos, that's the same results I get with the HP Laser Jet 1020. Nice and dark. Person from AZ, I remember when I purchased my HP, I called Hewlitt Packard customer service and had them look up the MSDS for their toners. that's how I initially found out which one to buy. I do remember reading somewhere that brother overall wasn't a good choice for this, but HP, still makes a few printers that will work well. I'll keep looking for the list. Denise
Michele, I would bet they do, they would have to have MSDS on premises for all of their toners, etc. (at least they are supposed to) I know there's been some debate that beldecal isn't the same as delphi photo paper, I still say it is, and cheaper too. You just need to find the right printer. Chaos' picts show how rich the sepia comes through.

* That's where i saw it, in one of my pottery mags, not on the web.

* Michelle,
Can you post a composite of the msds data?? Pinter model and iron content; something simple?
Chuck of AZ

* here you go, chuck from AZ, this is a pretty good list of them, and material safety data sheets too.

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