Sandblast cabinet lighting ?

I have a clarke cabinet that came with a light, it does not seem to be enough light for me to really see by. Is it okay to add some simple small flourescent lights, I was thinking about the kind that you find at Walmart, Home Depot in the light bulb section. It's about 6"-8" long comes with a AC adaper or is battery operated. I would use batteries.
Here what I would like to do: Add batteries to light, and glue on a couple of magnets to back and stick on to inside of my cabinet for alot of light.
Can I do this?
camaro

* Of course you can. However better lighting just makes it so much easier to see. See tiptools.com they have a light fixture that is easy to intall. Of course you can find something that would work at home depot too. I sandblast a lot and have 3 fixtures with 150 watt halogens in my cabinet. Works great. Another thing I do is I have a large roll of saran wrap attached to the cabinet, the saran wrap can unroll between the glass viewing port and the cabinet. So rather than try to peer through increasingly frosted glass I just unroll the saran wrap when ever it gets frosted and have a clear view again. Whole process takes less than two minutes.

* houghts on the Halogen lights, Don't they get hot?
If they are too close to your work, you might burn yourself.
Neat idea with the saran wrap.
So does it just stick to the glass. good enough that the flying grit does not work its way underneath?
Susan B

* After edge lighting some carved glass pieces with neon, I noticed that this light made it very easy to see uneven depths and other errors, so I put a stick of neon inside a piece of plastic tubing (the kind that's used for neon car kits) and sealed the ends with the same rubber seals that are used for the car kits, too. This works pretty well, and the neon doesn't get very warm at all. Now I'm going to start wrapping the plastic tubing in Saran wrap rather than replacing it when it gets too frosted: thanks for the good idea.

* Cheap clip-on lights, snake the cord out the cabinet air intake hole.
Buy float off-cuts from your local glass supplier and cut a mess of them to the window size. Also cheap. And quick to change when they frost. I never got that plastic wrap to stay flat enough, given the air flow in the cabinet, and the distortion bothered me.

* your local big box hardware store sell self enclosed fluorescent drop lights
your auto repair guy uses these to see under the hood
here's a link
you can hang a couple inside to light different angles
got my a couple of months ago I think the price I paid was lower that the one above

* One of the best set up out there. The whole system his custom build by Jim
He is a retired engineer with a fantastic brain for custom made solution.
Look at his lighting system, simply brilliant
Dan

* Ditto to what Marty said and I would add use the screw in type florscent bulbs. These bulbs give off a significatly more amount of light for very little heat. Important when you are blasting for a while. One minor safety thing I did was to wrap the cords with a very heavy duty insulation tape that you can get at HD or Lowes. This is to prevent accidental abbrasion on the cord that would expose the wiring to the metal cabinet. Don't need that kind of fireworks.
Phil

* Thanks so much for all the great ideas. I can now see the light. lol
camaro

* I cut a very large window into the back of my cabinet (okay, almost all of the back) and put on a Lexan window. I have one of those gajillion watt duel standing worklights (about $30 at Home Depot) that I stand behind the cabinet and shine through the window.
I get tons and tons of light without having anything extra in the cabinet. The Lexan of course gets frosted -- but that only soften the light a bit (which actually is nice).
- Paul

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