lubrication for drilling and grinding?
Some people use lubricants along with water in their grinders (routers) and I know of several commercial glass shops that mix antifreeze with water for drilling. I've never seen much difference with router bit life when using the lubricants, and I have a couple of core drills that came with instructions not to use antifreeze with them. Antifreeze and water would seem to be ok, and I can't see exactly how it would hurt a diamond core bit; you just want to be sure pets and kids don't have access it it. So what do other people use?
* I can't see any value of a lubricant in a grinder/router application. The action of a diamond cutting glass is different than say a drill in metal. Any fluid is only acting to keep the glass cool and remove ground glass.
About the only value might be a little rust inhibitor action, but most grinders/routers are plastic so it wouldn't be worth much.
As for antifreeze, it can't be good to have your hands in it.
I vote for just water.
* I use a product called Kleen Kool 100 from DoAll Industrial Supply. I use it in all my saws, grinders, core drills, and lapping plates(20:1 ratio). You can really tell the difference in cutting speed & finish. It is true, all you really need is water but the lubricant improves the speed, finish, and lengthens tool life.
* Some tech data on Kleen Tool 100
* Water and lots of it.
I ruined my first diamond belt by being stingy with the water.
Fortunately it was a short one and I was only out about $75. If it had been a big one I'd still be crying.
* You SHOULD use coolant.
Anti-freeze works by changing the temperature at which water will freeze or boil. This is of little help for grinding or drilling glass. "Coolant" works differently. It actually should be called "liquidifier". It works by thinning the water and making it more liquid - thus causing it to flow faster. By flowing faster, it acts more efficiently as a coolant.
Water cooled grinders and drills work without coolant, but work better with it - and last much longer.
* Looks like it's probably best to look at what the equipment manufacturer recommends for their particular product.
Here's some information on diamond saw blades.
Lots of other good information on saws and drills too.
These people sell make the "Result Blade"
* For over 15 years we used anti-freeze in the water(approx 10%) for saws and grinders. I feel that it did prolong the life of the blades/belts/heads.But stopped when the environmental issues of disposal in CA became a problem. I mostly use just a lot of water now and occasionally add a coolant if I think of it. I feel that it depends on how extensive the use of the tool (to keep the heat down)
If you use antifreeze...do not pour it down the drain or dump it on the ground.
* it's called a surfactant. it doesn't make the water more liquid (which is an oxymoron), but lowers the surface tension, which a detergent would do equally well.
* Chemicals sold as liquidifying agents (also called plasticizers) have been used for more than 30 years to increase liquidity - especially common in concrete technology. Also used in coating compounds (like paint) to make the liquid flow smoother without having to thin it.
Oil is less "liquid" than water. Alcohol is more "liquid" than water. Where's the oxymoron?
* the word you're looking for is fluidity, not liquidity. the study of the ability of flowing materials is fluidics.
Kind of like "strategery"
Wouldn't the correct term be fluid dynamics.
Don't know about oxymorons, but I qualify for the moron part.
* The word I used is the word I meant. Liquidity - the comparitive degree to which a material flows as a liquid. The term applies equally to physical materials as it does to finance capital. "Liquidifier" is the specific term under which plasticizing chemicals are sold.
Fluid Dynamics is the engineering study of how liquids behave. It explains how adding liquidifiers makes a liquid flow more easily. Just like adding water to porridge makes it flow quicker, adding "coolant" to water makes it flow quicker.
You can buy "grinder coolant" for about $3 per 8 oz bottle or about $20 per gallon. Either way it's an excellent investment to prolong tool life.
* I'm going to try Inland Diamond Coolant (which contains petroleum distillates) added to the water in my wet tile saw with a new lapidary blade...but the disposal instructions on their website are a little odd:
Waste Disposal Method: Incinerate or land fill where permitted under appropriate federal, state and local regulations.
Seriously....I'm supposed to incinerate the water from my saw?
I don't want to dump this stuff out in the yard....and I drain my saw's water tray after every use.
Also, they say to use 2 capfuls in a little grinder....how much should I use with a 10 inch wet saw?
* I use diamond coolant in my water for my core drill. I have a jar I mix up. When I drill, I make a dam with plasticene and pour a bit of water in the dam. When I am done, I sop up the water with paper towels. These are tossed in the trash and taken to the dump. I think eventually it is trucked to a trash to energy facility, so it is all burned.
* Thank you for the response!
* When I purchased my first diamond saw, the manufacturer told me I could purchase expensive coolants or just use a non-sudsing dishwasher detergent. That is what I do with my drill bits and my saw blades. No problem with the environment, no problem with poisoning from the ethylene glycol in antifreeze, and no problem with petroleum residue to try to clean from my glass before fusing.
I have one true lapidary saw and it rusts very easily. Apparently it was made for use with oil as the blade lubricant.
* Thank you, Lynn! I will try that!